COLOGNE, Germany — The first sweet whiff of 4711 Eau de Cologne wafts by us as we leave the Café Reichard terrace overlooking the city’s Gothic cathedral and stroll down Hohe Strasse. At the next ...

For me, Cologne has always been the most fragrant of cities – whether it’s the spicy clouds of incense billowing out of its riverside cathedral, the wafts of salt-crusted pretzels on Schildergasse or ...